Exploring Astoria Oregon

 

There are only a few places around the globe where the architecture, culture and surrounding nature are in near perfect harmony, creating a vibe that resonates with its vistors long after the stay. I made a brief visit to one such place, Astoria, Oregon, a small fishing village at the mouth of the Columbia River. Known as the first permanent U.S. settlement on the west coast, as well as the setting for a number of iconic films such as ‘The Goonies,’ much of Astoria feels like you’ve fallen into a beautiful time warp.

The town is also known for it’s brutal coastal storms in the winter, which may explain why there are 5+ brewers serving a population of less than 10,000 and more cocktail lounges than you’d expect in such a small town. I was lucky enough to get a guided tour of some the town’s best spots, courtesy of Tanisha Caravello, beer curator and manager at Hondo’s Brew and Cork on the East side of town.

Hondo’s Brew and Cork

Beginning as a homebrew supply shop, owner RJ Kiepke is a brewer as well, with half of the taps filled with his own excellent creations, including a hard cider. Part of Oregon’s North Coast Beer Trail, Hondo’s also hosts an annual homebrew competition. I met our trusty guide Tanisha here where she holds court, sampling some of their excellent bottle collection as well as the taproom offerings. It was early enough in the day that I missed out on their happy hour, yet after a few samples we headed down to the Riverfront where the barking sea lions served as a marker for our next destination.

Buoy Beer Company

Situated on a dock on the Riverfront, Buoy is literally surrounded by barking sea lions who casually lounge on planks below the brewpub, as seen through glass panels in the floor. Sitting at the main bar, a green buoy sways in the current marking the shipping channel for the large container ships that regularly pass through. We sampled their well-balanced barleywine and a few burgers while occasionally seeing sea lion heads popping up in the water. While only in existence since 2013, Buoy just started distributing their IPA and Czech Pils in the Portland area just last month.

Fort George Brewery

We next checked out the largest brewery founded in Astoria, Fort George, which is a must visit. With two floors of dining and bars, plus their Lovell Taproom right next door, it’s clear that they’re doing something right. Known for their phenomenal variety of beers, friendly staff and their attention to detail, Fort George is making some of the best beer in the country. We sampled their Bourbon Barrel Cavatica Stout, Omegatex DIPA and an excellent Stong Belgian with Mango called Magnifera Indica Belgae. If you can ever swing it, Fort George hosts the Annual Festival of the Dark Arts, a stout festival featuring live music and craft artisans, in mid-February.

Astoria Coffee House and Bistro

One of our last stops for the evening was this excellent restaurant and cocktail lounge. I didn’t check to see if they pour coffee, I was too distracted by the gorgeous surroundings, the exquisitely crafted vintage libations and their super fresh sushi which is their Monday night special. With all the deliciously unique food on the menu, the sturdy quality of their cocktails and their reasonable prices, this place can be dangerous, as it’s tough to leave.

Astoria’s more than just a sleepy fishing town or a movie nerd’s mecca, it’s one of Oregon’s best places to take a one-of-a-kind brewcation, even if it’s only for a day…

Huge thanks to Tanisha, Brad Blaser of Fort George and RJ for their guidance and much appreciated recommendations!